Apr 16 - Slow Low AZ to Abuquerque NM

I went to bed last night with visions of another glorious day travelling the back roads, maybe a quick stop in Pie Town for pie, but when I slid the curtain open, I saw snowflakes. I got dressed and checkout the bike and it was beginning to collect snow. Coffee and a quick check with NOAA and it looked like the storm was "breeding" just north of me. It was just about freezing so I thought it might warm up and turn to rain soon. So another leisurely cup of joe and another check and even more snow had collected. The road was sill warm enough that it was wet so I could ride, but what to do. If I wait and any more collects, I am stuck here. The only road south is Rt 191 which would take me 4 hours to get through and I had to be back in ABQ before the beemer shop closed so I can get it in to be worked on next week. The only option was to go for it and hop the snow stopped further east and/or later in the morning (temperature should go up right?). I put all the layers I had on (think Michelin Man), checked out, scraped the fast accumulating snow off the bike, strapped the bag on and headed east.
The road was wet and no sign of freezing yet. I got the usual @#$% looks from folks as I cruised through Slow Low and remembered that I had to climb up to the Continental Divide, which means higher which means colder. Crap.

Well the snow just got worst so I kept going as long as the road was only wet, not icy. I went slow enough that the pickups were passing me and the resulting spray did not help matters. I got a frozen windshield and foggy glasses and a frozen visor so I let my face hang out so I could see.Nice rosy cheeks tonight. I made it to the top of the divide and now it was really snowing, but no buildup on the road, so down the other side hoping the temperature would rise as I went down and it would turn to rain. I had the heated grips on full blast which helped a lot and I was too lazy to stop and turn the hot air vents from the oil cooler to shoot hot air onto my hands (which helps only marginally anyway.
I have ridden a lot in snow at home, but usually with something with knobbies, and as some of you know, not always successfully (think broken leg 3 Januaries ago, heh they were studded knobbies ok).
I got to Springerville which is about an hour east and still snow. I stopped for gas because the next stretch was pretty long and nothing resembling a town big enough to have any. A guy was filling up and I asked if he had any idea what I could expect east of there and he though it might get a bit warmer but not much. The storm was the same one hammering Denver so it might reach all the way down to ABQ.

Full tank and no turning back, I climbed the next hill and then it started accumulating on the road. I passed the ever present Elk crossing signs (that would be timely) and a possibly uplifting "Jesus" sign, and just kept everything smooth and hoped the big gyroscopes under me would keep me going straight. And of course the bridge that was definitely frozen solid added to the mix.
But alas, the road accumulation ended so I got back to just wet pavement and just about when Pie Town came up, it seemed to have tapered off. The Pie-O-Neer was closed (famous Pie Lady place) but there was a little hole in the wall cafe next to it with lots of trucks parked outside (always a good sign), so I decided to stop for coffee, first to just hold in my hands and thaw them out, and then to drink so I could thaw out from the inside. The place was packed with real cowboy looking old guys. Big hats (they stay on your head by the way, never take them off) and those big heavy soiled jackets (they stay on too). The place had 3 big tables that everyone shared so I sat next to a couple of the old guys and started taking layers off. Now everyone in there must have gotten a boost, knowing for certain, there was someone dumber than them, and here he was, right in their own coffee shop. The nice lady running the joint said the coffee was no charge, and offered a small pie (she did charge for those). It was a little early for pie so I asked about eggs, which someone out back whipped up with hash browns, toast and bacon of course. I used the bathroom while the eggs were made and they had a heater in there that kept the temperature at least 80, which was wonderful, and I took my time so I could soak it in.
I sat back next to "Paul" who was 80 and was born across the street. He loved to talk so this turned into a long, very pleasant stop. His father moved there in 1926 with 2 wagons and a Model T. He was one of 12 kids, 5 are dead and 7 still living, and they raised beans and cattle (beef). My table was all seniors and every knew everybody. The owner was born here in 1957 and she had just moved back after moving all around the country with "Mr Wrong" and came back to settle in Pie Town and I assume start his gift shop / cafe. Looked like a New Mexico version of the old farts club and the free coffee probably got them in a lot.

I looked out the window at one point and it was snowing again, so i settled up and bundled back up, said goodbye (it takes a while) and got back on the bike and headed east again. It did eventually stop snowing as I descended down to Rt 25 in Socorro, and even sprinkled a bit.
Everything stopped as I headed north to ABQ with plenty of time to get to the bike shop before it closed. At the shop we made a list of what needed to be done (front tire, valves, oil, filters, high beam switch (the bike is too old, they would have to $pecial order it, no thank$, squirt contact cleaner in thank you). They drove me to Jacobs in a big old BMW car (for what the service was going to cost they should) and Deb arrived 30 minutes later. Dinner out with our favorite son, then off to the hotel and sleep. Tomorrow we take the car and head south. 294 miles today.